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When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.